Metal Repair Kits
Metal Repair Kit Content
TECHNILOY METAL REPAIR KIT INSTRUCTIONS:
TECHNILOY IS A HIGH STRENGTH SOLDER – LEAD FREE, NON-TOXIC – WITH A LOW MELTING POINT OF 210 °C.
It can repair most metals (even join dissimilar metals) but is not suitable for TUNGSTEN, TITANIUM & MAGNESIUM.
1FOR USE ON MILD STEEL, STAINLESS STEEL, GALVANISED STEEL, COPPER, BRASS, BRONZE, LEAD, CAST IRON:
a) Clean the work area with sandpaper, if necessary. Shake the LIQUID FLUX well and apply a few drops to the work area. This flux is non-toxic and harmless to your skin. Use your finger to spread the flux, and for best results rub the flux well onto the work area. Stainless steel must always be sandpapered first.
b) With TECHNILOY you never heat the rod, only the work piece.
c) Heat the area with a soft, sweeping flame and closely observe the change in the condition of the flux as the temperature increases: It will start to boil, then turn into a white powder and then it will become wet and light brown. This is the right temperature to apply the solder. More heat can be added to obtain a nice, even flow.
CAUTION: If you overheat the flux, it will be destroyed. It will become dry and dark brown. If this happens allow the job to cool down slightly and add new flux and heat again.
3TO JOIN ALUMINIUM OR AN ALLOY TO A NON ALUMINIUM METAL:
Apply the TINNING PROCESS, as explained above, to the aluminum or alloy, and use the LIQUID FLUX on the other metal. Jig components up. Heat until the metal is hot enough to melt the rod and apply enough solder to complete the joint.
2REPAIRING ALUMINIUM ALLOY CASTINGS, PEWTER AND ZINC DIECAST ALLOYS:
a) The crack or area to be repaired must be opened with a grinder or a file in a “V” shape to make room for the solder. The pieces of a broken component must be treated individually.
b) DO NOT USE ANY FLUX These alloys require a TINNING PROCESS to get the solder to take.
c) THE TINNING PROCESS: Carefully heat the component with a soft sweeping flame (It is best to use a L.P. GAS Flame to prevent damage) The melting point of pewter is only 230 °C and for most of these alloys the melting point is under 300 °C. To prevent overheating, remove the flame every five seconds and test for temperature with the rod. Continue this process until the work piece is hot enough to melt the rod. Take the flame away and apply solder to the entire work area. Apply just enough heat to keep the solder in a molten state, and with a STAINLESS-STEEL BRUSH work the molten solder through the oxidation on the surface area of the alloy. Continue this process until the solder becomes very glossy and it is apparent that the solder has taken.
d) Once all the relevant areas have been properly tinned, the pieces must be jigged up in alignment. Heat the work piece up again and test with the rod for temperature until it can melt the rod and add enough solder to fill the “V” and complete repair.
e) If necessary you could use a heated hacksaw blade to shape and plaster the solder, before it hardens, to tidy up the job.
4USING THE SPECIAL ALUMINIUM FLUX:
a) The aluminum flux is only suitable for use on aluminum sheet metal or thin aluminum material. For thicker aluminum (2mm+) or heavy aluminum sections, make use of the tinning process as described in 2(c).
b) It can be used to join aluminum to aluminum, or copper to aluminum It is ideal for repairing small holes in aluminum.
c) The Aluminum Flux must never be subjected to an open flame. Apply the flux only to the solder rod and not to the work piece. Apply a few drops of the flux to the rod and spread it evenly with your finger over roughly half the length of the rod.
d) Heat the work piece with a sweeping flame, and at intervals, remove the flame and test with the un-fluxed end of the rod for temperature. When the metal is hot enough to melt the rod, remove flame and apply the fluxed end of the rod to the work piece. Any excess Aluminum Flux on the rod can be washed off in water after completion of the job
GENERAL HINTS:
1) Let all soldered joints cool off naturally. Cooling it with water causes thermal shock and weakens the joint.
2) When using TECHNILOY solder, it is not necessary to remove the galvanizing when working on galvanized steel. Just use the Liquid Flux
3) Where metals overlap, the capillary action will suck the solder into the overlap. Just use the LIQIUID FLUX on both surfaces. (Not applicable on alloys)
4) When repairing castings that are difficult to jig up, half embed components in a steel bowl filled with sand to hold them in position.
5) If the thread of a bolt hole in alloys has been stripped, it can be repaired with TECHNILOY. Drill out the remains of the old thread to leave you with a smooth wall side in the hole. Use a narrowed down hacksaw blade to perform the TINNING PROCESS inside the hole. Once tinned, fill hole with solder, and when cooled off, drill and tap.
